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Buying used

Buying used, the same money can get you an instrument one level up. But if you don't know what to check, repairs can end up costing more. Check as you go on your phone, right there. Your checkmarks are saved on this device.

Used or new: which suits you

Used suits you if

  • You have a set budget and want one level up within it
  • You can meet in person and see it yourself (or bring someone experienced along)
  • Look at models over $600 — this is where buying used starts to pay off

New is better if

  • Under $300 — new and used prices differ by only a little, and new comes with warranty service
  • You can't go see it and have to get it shipped
  • It's your first guitar and you're not confident judging its condition (this page helps somewhat)
  • You'd be shipping a solid-wood acoustic or classical — humidity damage doesn't show in photos

Where to buy

PlaceFeaturesCaution
Reverb (reverb.com)A marketplace just for music gear, with a huge number of listings. Search sold listings to see market prices.Pay through the site's own checkout. Be suspicious of prices far below market.
Facebook MarketplaceLocal, in-person deals. Lots of cheap beginner guitars from people who stopped playing.Condition descriptions are often thin. Always see it in person.
eBayPlenty of listings, but not instrument-focused.Watch for scams. Always pay through eBay's checkout.
Music stores (used)Used and display models from music stores. They often come set up, and some have a short warranty.10–20% more than private sales. That difference buys peace of mind.

Stores in Korea are listed under Retailers, brands and repair shops.

Getting a feel for prices

  • Used prices are typically 60–75% of new. Popular models (Fender, Gibson, PRS, Martin, Taylor) hold their value; Korean brands and beginner models drop more.
  • Search the model name on Reverb or eBay and look only at sold listings to see what people actually paid. Listed prices are just asking prices.
  • A case, strap and cable add some value. A hard case adds more.
  • "Freshly set up" and "new strings" are good signs. "Just needs tuning" needs checking.

On-the-spot checklist

After the 12 common checks come extra checks for acoustic and classical, and for bass. For electric and bass, first ask the seller, "Mind if I plug it into an amp?" If they say no, don't buy it.

  • 12 common checks
  • Extra checks: acoustic and classical
  • Extra checks: bass

How to decide. If any of 1, 5, 11, A1, A3 or B1 fails, don't buy (structural problems). For 2, 3, 4, 6–10, A2 and B2, work out the repair cost and negotiate the price down or walk away (parts or setup problems). Item 12 only matters for expensive guitars.

Deal tips

Meeting in person

  • Best to meet somewhere with an amp, like the seller's home or a rehearsal room. If it's a café, bring a headphone amp.
  • In daylight, somewhere bright. Neck bow and cracks don't show in the dark.
  • Bring a tuner, a cable and a headphone amp (plus a 9V battery for bass). Ask "Mind if I plug it into an amp?" first.
  • Base your offer on what the checklist turns up, e.g. "The jack needs replacing, so could you take off the cost?"

Buying with shipping

  • Escrow or protected payment only. Refuse requests to pay by direct bank transfer.
  • Ask for photos: the neck from the side, close-ups of frets 1–5, the back of the headstock, the jack and knobs, and the serial number. For acoustics, the top behind the bridge, shot at an angle.
  • Ask the seller to pack it with the neck supported and the strings slightly loosened.
  • 30% or more below market plus "must sell fast" is likely a scam. Search whether the same photos are posted on other marketplaces.